Bungsamran: what a first session actually looks like

Bungsamran is not wild. It is a managed lake in the east of Bangkok with concrete-edged swims, roofed pavilions and a restaurant, and the fish in it are enormous. People arrive expecting jungle and find something closer to a very well run fishery with a city skyline behind it. That disappointment lasts until the first run.

That disappointment lasts until the first run.

The main quarry is Mekong giant catfish, and they are stocked in numbers that would be absurd anywhere else. A session where you land nothing is unusual. A session where you land a dozen fish between twenty and forty kilos is an ordinary day, and the biggest go a great deal further than that.

Bungsamran: what a first session actually looks like

The method is not subtle. A large float, a heavy feeder of ground bait suspended below it, and a hook baited with the same paste, fished mid water. The fish feed in the cloud rather than on the bottom, so depth setting is the one thing worth getting right and the boys on the bank will set it for you.

Tackle is available on site and there is no reason to bring your own for a first visit. Rods are heavy, lines are strong and everything is designed around fish that will strip fifty metres without noticing. If you are planning a trip and want the wider picture first, there is a wider rundown of the whole thing that covers the lakes, the sea trips and what the whole thing costs.

Go early. The gates open before dawn, the heat is bearable until about ten, and the fish feed hardest in the first two hours. By midday you will be sitting under a roof drinking something cold and watching somebody else's rod bend.